When the summer tan begins to fade, the damages the summer sun caused to the facial skin and the décolletage, the most prominent of which are the pigmentation spots, become more salient. This is the ideal time to treat these phenomena using active ingredients that contribute to the rejuvenation and rehabilitation of the skin. The studies on the subject of treating sun damages have led to the development of effective treatments for the regeneration and rehabilitation of the facial skin.
Peels with Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids
The peeling treatments that are based on the alpha hydroxy acids and the beta hydroxyl acids performed in the beauty salon have become increasingly popular over the last decades. At the beauty salon, these treatments are defined as medium to superficial, and are based on a series of several treatments.
The alpha hydroxy acids enable reaching impressive results in the treatment of sun damages and the rejuvenation of the skin. These acids break the cellular bond and enable the exfoliation and dissolving of dead skin cells. As a result, the skin undergoes a natural process of regeneration, and the layers that were removed are replaced with new skin cells. In addition, it has been found that these acids operate to increase the production of the collagen and elastin in the depths of the skin, and also encourage the production of other important skin components such as hyaluronic acid.
The beta hydroxy acid is also called salicylic acid, since it essentially constitutes a derivative of acetylsalicylic acid— the active ingredient in Aspirin. As such, it is endowed with anti-inflammatory properties. Moreover, since it is fat soluble, it can penetrate the skin pores that contain fat and exfoliate the dead skin cells that accumulate in them and clog them. These characteristics make it especially efficient for use in oily skin with comedones and pimples.
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. In recent years, this substance has been considered as one of the most effective cosmetic components, alongside the alpha and beta hydroxy acids, which can repair skin damages that stem from exposure to the sun and lighten sunspots. The retinol, which is authorized for use in cosmetic products and paramedical cosmetic products, discomposes in the skin and transforms into retinoic acid, which operates on the skin cells. Studies have found that, as early as one month after applying a product that contains a concentration of 0.1% retinoic acid, there is a dramatic decrease of more than 80% in the amount of the age spots, as well as a general lightening of the skin.
In recent years, new studies have revealed that unique enzymes found in the skin operate to repair the damages caused by the radiation of the sun. These enzymes, called photolyase enzymes, repair the damage to the DNA helix and restore its original shape. Moreover, additional studies have found that the dermal application of DNA repair enzymes can reverse the damage caused by the free radicals as a result of the exposure to the UV radiation. Today, the repair enzymes are a key component in innovative cosmetic products, and they prevent and repair the damages caused to the skin by the exposure to the sun, and thus operate to normalize the cells and improve the skin. In addition, these products stimulate the natural repair mechanisms in the skin cells.
This water soluble antioxidant, which is also called ascorbic acid, is one of the central antioxidants in nature, and it fills an essential role in neutralizing the damages to the skin caused by the free radicals. Moreover, vitamin C fills an important part in the production of the collagen and elastin, and has an important potential in the inhibition, and even reversal, of the damages caused to the skin by the sun’s radiation. And indeed, studies have proven that the application of the vitamin onto the skin enables the protection of the skin from the sun’s damages and even rehabilitates the collagen and elastin fibers, repairs existing damages and reduces pigmentation spots.
An acid produced by fungi, such as Penicillium or Aspergillus, which also constitutes a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice or the manufacturing process of sake— the Japanese rice wine. The kojic acid inhibits the production of melanin by reducing the efficiency of the tyrosinase enzyme—an enzyme that accelerates and encourages the production of the melanin during the exposure to the sun.
The azelaic acid also inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, and when it is combined with kojic acid it assists in achieving a quicker result in the impediment of the melanin and the reduction of the spots.
An aromatic alpha hydroxy acid, which has antibacterial properties, encourages the regeneration of the cells and lightens hyperpigmentation. As a result, the evenness of the skin complexion improves, and the skin becomes brighter and looks more radiant. An important advantage of the mandelic acid is that it is also suitable for people with sensitive skin and for those who have dark skin.
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
This vitamin operates to decrease the production of the melanin through a different route —by inhibiting the passage of melanocytes into the keratinocyte cells. In addition, it is known for its ability to cleanse, moisturize, rejuvenate the skin and encourage the growth of cells.
Arbutin is a plant derivative of hydroquinone, produced from bearberry leaves, cranberries, blueberries and similar plants, and it also efficiently impedes the production of the melanin by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme.
The need for products that operate to lighten the hyperpigmentation spots has prompted HL, the leading professional cosmetics brand in Israel, to develop an innovative therapeutic series for lightening spots and hyperpigmentation— DERMALIGHT. This unique series is based on a complex of plant extracts, which operates to reduce the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, combined with kojic acid, azelaic acid, mandelic acid, vitamin C and arbutin. This powerful combination creates a highly effective treatment, which leads to visible results in the lightening of hyperpigmentation spots, the reduction of age spots and melisma, the prevention of the formation of new skin spots and the creation of a look of radiating healthy skin with an even complexion. The series includes lightening products for the salon— including, a cleanser, peels, a booster for professional massage, a lightening serum, a lightening mask and an active lightening cream, as well as lightening products for the completion of the treatment at home.
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5 facts about the HL PROFESSIONAL PEELS
1. The core blends of HL PROFESSIONAL PEELS, the comprehensive range of cosmetic grade exfoliators, are based on proprietary blends of natural Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) further enhanced with key actives such as BHA, Retinol and extracts to reach the optimal synergy point.
2. The HL proprietary blends of Alpha Hydroxy Acids comprise 5 AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid, in different concentrations and ratios. These acids are sourced from milk as well as fruits such as oranges, lemons, sugar cane, sugar maple and bilberry.